6/21/2023 0 Comments Build a reamp box![]() ![]() Guitar reamping without a reamp box may be possible, but it may require some additional skills. With reamping, you can also experiment with your favorite mic preamps. The signal will be properly connected to the amplifier if it is properly connected to the guitar signal. The Reamp Box, like the DI Box, takes a Line Level source and converts it to a Hi Impedance (Hi-Z) output. There are several DI boxes that are among the best sellers in Radial Engineering’s catalog, including the J48 Direct Box, HDI, ProDI, and Reamp Kit. Play back the recorded guitar signal and adjust the amplifier settings to achieve the desired sound.Įven a DI box with the necessary inputs and outputs can do the job for you. Turn on the guitar amplifier and set the volume to a moderate level. Connect the output of the re-amp box or amplifier to the input of the guitar amplifier. Connect the recorded guitar signal to the input of the re-amp box or amplifier. ![]() To re-amp a guitar signal, you’ll need: – A recorded guitar signal – A guitar amplifier – A re-amp box (optional) Here’s a step-by-step guide to re-amping a guitar signal: 1. ![]() Re-amping can also be done without a re-amp box, by using a guitar amplifier’s line out or effects loop. The most common way is to use a re- amp box, which is a device that takes the recorded signal and outputs it to an amplifier. There are a few different ways to re-amp a guitar signal. When re-amping an electric guitar, you can use different amplifier settings and effects to change the sound of the recorded guitar. Re-amping can be done with any recorded guitar signal, but it’s especially useful for recorded electric guitar. It’s a common studio technique that can be used to make a recorded guitar sound more like it was recorded in a different space, or with different equipment. No idea if it would be worth pairing it with a passive DI for the return into the OT but probably not unless you luck in to a free transformer - unlike a passive reamp, a passive DI pretty much requires a high quality, shielded, expensive transformer to actually be usable so even DIY you’re looking at $100+ for the transformer alone (but that’s more or less the full cost, since a passive DI is literally just a suitable transformer wired up to a pair of jacks an stuck inside a grounded metal enclosure - they sound great and are easy to build but probably not something you’d need in this case, they’re more for situations where you want to get a really nice DI bass sound or something).Re-amping is the process of taking a recorded guitar signal and playing it back through a guitar amplifier to get a different tone. For other pedals it hardly matters at all. Some pedals, especially older designs from the 60s and 70s, tend to sound quite a bit different depending on how they’re loaded, so something like this can make a big difference. Between that and using 1/4" jacks instead of XLR the cost is really low, I think the transformer was around $8 and that’s by far th most expensive part. For me, the lowe output, inductorless mode that the article says bhaves more like a single coil pickup has been mostly useless and if I were going to do it again I’d eliminate that altogether, which means one less resistor and sitch. I built one of these a while back and it sounds great but I’d recommend simplifying it even more. If you’re even slightly handy with a soldering iron it’s pretty trivial to build a passive reamp box for under $20usd (well under depending on how you design it). Improper connections and impedance mismatches are one of the major influences of “tone suck”, which if one’s not aware of could go unnoticed and your left unknowingly with subpar sound… If it absolutely didn’t matter you wouldn’t find worlds of info about this on the webz, but in most cases audio passes through so folks just say it works… There’s much info on the Internet about this and every manufacturer of every audio device can give you specs on its best intended level/impedance ranges for optimum performance. If one has nice audio equipment, it’s probably worth the time and energy to connect it properly. It’s nice to know the technical side of things and try to make the best connection, or at least be able to decide knowingly if you want to settle for a non-optimum connection or not. People will always say just plug things in but there is a deeper technical side to all of this that can indeed affect sound quality. Cool, I was hoping I wasn’t saying too much… And it looks like thoses pedals will run fine… ![]()
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